Whiskey is no different than people when it comes to aging — some do it better than others. And sometimes there’s no apparent reason for the difference. Oh, there’s the usual: happy marriages, unhappy marriages, too long in the wrong job or warehouse hot spots, not enough variation in habits or weather, that sort of thing. One of the smartest and wittiest men I know has morphed into a reincarnation of Eeyore in his mid-sixties. Nobody saw that coming because the man has lived a reasonably successful and happy life. Or so it seems but then, we never really know the interior lives of others. It’s the same with barrels of whiskey – what’s inside is impacted by everything that happens outside.

A hundred barrels of the same new whiskey can be rolled into the warehouse together but they will emerge at different times and in varying states of quality. Differences depend on the style and location of the warehouse, the quality of the barrel, its placement in the warehouse, and how long it stays there. And then there’s how hot the summers are and how cold the winters. The warehouse (some prefer rickhouse or rackhouse) is where the mystery of whiskey making is most evident. It’s there that nature takes charge, and with time on her side transforms raw and grainy-tasting white dog into an amber liquid, flashing red when held up to light, full of rich and complex flavors.

Warehouses are outfitted with at least minimum heating capabilities because the aging process is suspended at 32º Farenheit. As the whiskey reposes in the barrel, it’s safe to say that pretty much everything happening has some bearing on the final outcome as warm temperatures expand the liquid into the wood and cold extracts it again, pulling flavors with it. Proprietary yeast strains, GMO or non-GMO grain, the thickness of the barrel stave, the depth of the char, temperature, humidity, distillation proof, barrel-entry proof, storms, drought, sunny days and cloudy, and number of years in the wood all converge to determine the character and flavor of the whiskey within.

The age statement on the label reflects the youngest whiskey in the bottle. With some brands that’s the only whiskey in the bottle while others contain a blend of different ages. Generally speaking, the older the whiskey, the more expensive it is, implying more care. The current bourbon boom has skyrocketed prices of extra-aged bourbons but that’s not necessarily a guarantee that the contents are as exceptional as the price. Some old barrels are sweet and mellow while others come out fiery and woody. That’s why there’s mingling. Julian Van Winkle can only watch over so many barrels.

Currently, the industry is trending to No Age Statement (NAS) on labels, presumably to provide the flexibility to mix in younger whiskey as long as the result still meets the brand’s taste profile. After all, “Aged Four Years” doesn’t quite have that premium ring to it. Using a younger spirit gains volume for the distiller in these days of high demand since there’s way more young spirits than old. Bourbon enthusiasts are as suspicious of this as they are of the Non Distiller Produced (NDP) whiskeys, posting online rants about how distillers are trying to pull a quick one on us in the form of more bucks for less bang. The industry has entered quick growth mode and so will be sorting itself out for years to come as it evolves to meet new demand and adapts to new aging and tracking technologies. Is this bad for the drinker? The proof, of course, is always in the bottle.